Thursday, July 2, 2020

LS460 - Fog Light Mod

The LS460's fog lights from factory only comes on with the low beams on. With the high beams on the fog lights turn off. Wanted the flexibility of being able to turn on my fog lights, independent of the headlights. Want to thank Shibumi1 for documenting his version of the mod, I just modified it to do what I wanted. I did not want the fog lights on all the time nor did I want to put in another switch. I just wanted my fog lights on when the park lights come on and also full functionality of the factory fog light switch. The wiring diagram below is how I wired everything up. 

The baby blue wire below is the ground signal for the fog light switch. It is located under the steering column, just remove the plastics of the steering wheel column and the picture below is what you see with the bottom plastic piece removed.

(picture courtesy of daniel1235)

For the harness I planned on mounting all the relays etc up front behind the bumper support so ran the fog light ground signal wire from under the steering column through the firewall into the engine bay to the front behind the bumper support. Soldered all the wires, heat shrunk every connection and made a nice harness with some techflex wire loom. The below shows the harness but with some extra wires etc I wanted to run that ties in to the front I plan on doing later. Also the harness has a fused power wire to run the HID's for the fog lights.

The relays mounted behind the bumper support. 

For the fog lights to come on with the park lights, I tapped into the yellow wire on the harness that is connected to the headlights. Picture below shows the orange wire I used in my harness and tapped into the yellow wire. 

The JDM fog lights that were modified slightly.

-AJ Abraham

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Wednesday, July 1, 2020

LS460 - Air Ride Plan & Prep

The LS460L although longer it looses a good bit of trunk space because of the additional rear air conditioning and cooler options. The last LS460 install I did was on the shorter wheel base and had a much bigger trunk but still wanted to retain as much of the trunk space as possible. For this one as well wanted to retain trunk space so everything went in the wheel well too. The only thing I did different on this one was to sound proof the wheel well and add noise isolators for the compressors.

Parts I used:
Air Lift (50714) Compressor Isolator Kit (x2)
Noico 80mil sound deadner
Quiet Barrier 1/4" High Density Sound Barrier
Viair 444C Compressor (x2)
Ridetech management
3/8" Airline for the front air bags
1/4" Airline for the rear air bags
SMC  check valve for the compressors 
DEI Heat Shroud

With the wheel well vacuumed and cleaned I used some isopropyl alcohol to wipe down the wheel well to make sure there was no grease etc to help give the sound deadening a better bond. The power wire and signal wires were ran to the trunk and the power wire has its own circuit breaker and kill switch. For the signal wire, I tapped into the utilities fuse in the fuse block on the passenger side under the glove box. 

Warmed up the back of the sound deadening and stuck it on. You can see the lines coming into the wheel well below. I drilled a 1.5" hole for the left and the right and was able to fit both the air lines and both level sensor wires for each side through it. All the lines coming out of the wheel well was wrapped with the DEI Heat shroud, just anywhere I thought might get affected by exhaust heat at all. The lines were ran under the car along the frame rails on either side. Have done this multiple times in the past without any issues. If the fuel lines and brake lines are going to be ok being run that way so should the air lines. The hole for the lines got sealed with flex tape to prevent contaminants entering the wheel well through the hole that was made. After the sound deadening was in place I test fitted where I wanted all the components. All the components are serviceable because I mounted bolts from under the wheel well and locked everything in place with lock nuts and washers. All the components slide onto the bolts and held in by nuts. Anything that need to be serviced, just remove the nuts and slide the component off. The tank, compressors on isolators and valve body is held down this way. 

Over the sound deadening went the quiet barrier. I did wipe down the sound deadening with IPA as well to clean up any grease etc again to make sure the quiet barrier would bond better.

With all the test fitting etc done I wanted to streamline the wiring a little and also wanted to make sure the valve body didn't have any trash in it. I had a rebuilt kit handy just in case it needed anything. Ran all the wires with some techflex wire loom, soldered and heat shrunk all the connections. Opened up the valves and just ran compressed air through the internals to get rid of any debris, added some oil to the o-rings and plunger and assembled everything 

The tank, painted and decaled.

Everything mounted and secured in the wheel well. 

Powered everything up and let the compressors fill the tank and verified that all the valves operate in the right order. Filled up the tank to 150psi and checked for any leaks with soapy water, no leaks. Filled up the tank and left it overnight to verify no leaks, no leaks!! With all that done, and if everything goes according to plan, I just need to mount the ride height sensors, put the bags on and connect everything. Fingers crossed.

-AJ Abraham

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