LX470 - Sunroof Molding Replacement.

While wiring up the switchpro, I realized that I had ordered sunroof moldings earlier because the molding was pretty worn and nasty.

So onto that, undid the plastic covers inside and the nuts holding the sunroof molding tilted the sunroof up. Found out that to remove the sunroof I had to also dismantle part of the roof rack to get some of the tracks out of the way so did that and out came the glass. Simple.

 

Removed the old molding and the gasket goo that left behind I got everywhere. Tried a couple of cleaners but the best way I figured out was to use a plastic blade and scrape off everything first and then use acetone on a rag. Keep flipping the rag and dispose of it once it has the goo on it because otherwise it'll just spread as thin layers wherever you wipe it. 

To put the molding on I used a thin coat of 3M Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive  and tried pressing it in. I didn't think using my hands was applying even pressure so I used a roller I had gotten for putting dynamat on. Don't use a knurled roller, only use a smooth one. It applies even pressure and it worked out really well I feel.  

 Put the sunroof back, cleaned up the plastic covers, sprayed some protectant on them and assembled everything back. Tighten down the nuts after you put it back in the closed position and adjust where needed. 

Not a hard job but can get messy. 

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LX470 - Auxbeam Switchpro Install

Been meaning to install a switchpro and finally got everything needed to do it.

Parts list:

Auxbeam Switcpro

Auxbeam Engine Bay Mounting Brackets

Auxbeam Switch Panel Mount

4 gauge wire

Braided sheathing & heat shrink (various sizes)

Test fitted and wired everything off vehicle.

Installed everything, and ran wiring through the rubber grommet on the driver side firewall. 

Ran the switchpro controller wiring through the the side pillar and roof liner into where the the overhead console is. The switch panel mount fit excellent and love the positioning of it. I didn't have to extend the wiring for the controller either.

Need to clean up around the battery a bit and find a source for new fuse box stickers.

Now to start adding accessories. 

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LX470 - Motor Maintenance Engine Bay Overhaul

As preventative maintenance I had stockpiled a bunch of preventative and while you are in there parts to refresh the motor and had an opening to get this done. 

Parts list I had organized according to work groups:

Starter:

OEM Starter - 28100-50100-84

Intake manifold gasket - Intake to head OEM (17171-50020) (2x)

Water By-pass:

Water bypass gaskets (16341-50020) (4x)

Aisin FIPG AB1207B1

Fuel injector seals:

Seals 23291-41010 (8x)

O-rings 90301-07024 (8x)

Grommets 90480-13005 (8x)

Fuel Pressure Regulator 23280-50050

OEM Fuel Filter (23303-64010)

Connectors:

Temp sensor connector 90980-11428

2-pin connector (vacuum) 90980-11156

Knock sensnor connector 90980-11166 (2x)

Injector connector 90980-11153 (8x)

Coil connector 90980-11885 (8x)

MAF connector 90980-11317

Throttle connector 90980-11150

Starter connector 90980-11400

Heater Tees & Hoses by firewall:

OEM Heater Water T Pipe (87248-60460 x 2) 12.53 x 2

OEM Heater hose (170mm)(99556-20200)

OEM Heater hose (87245-6A201)

OEM Heater hose (87245-6A190)

OEM Heater hose (87245-6A180)

OEM Heater hose (87245-6A220)

OEM Heater hose (87245-6A210)

Motor Maintenance:

Toyota (90916-02586) Serpentine Belt

Toyota (16603-0W010) Upper tension pulley

Toyota (90916-02586) Lower pulley

Toyota (13540-50030) Timing Belt Tensioner

Toyota (13505-0F010) Timing Belt Idler

Toyota (13503-0F010) Timing Belt Idler

Toyota (13568-09070) Timing Belt

Toyota (16100-59275-83) Water Pump w/Housing

Toyota thermostat (90916-03100)

Toyota thermostat gasket (16346-50010)

Toyota O'ring thermostat housing (96761-35035)

OEM Front Main Seal (90311-43006)

OEM Camshaft Seal (90311-38065) (x2)

Toyota Long Life Antifreeze Coolant (00272-1LLAC-01) x 2 or (00272-SLLC2) x 4

OEM Valve cover bolt (90080-10330) x 18

Toyota Valve Cover gaskets - Left - (11214-50011)

Toyota Valve Cover gasket - Right -  (11213-50031)

Toyota Spark Plug Gasket (11193-70010) x 8

Toyota Throttle Body Gasket ( 22271-50041)

NGK Spark Plugs 4589 IFR6T-11 x 8

K&N Air Filter 33-2146

OEM Fan Clutch (16210-50051)

OEM- FAN BRACKET SUB-ASSY (16307-50012)

OEM Radiator (16400-50360)

OEM Radiator Cap (16401-67150)

OEM Lower radiator hose (16572-50150)

OEM Upper Radiator Hose (16571-50150)

Driver & Passenger Front O2 sensor (Bank 1 & 2 - Sensor 1) - Denso 2344169 (89465-50060)

PCV: 

Toyota PCV Valve (12204-50020)

Toyota PCV Valve Grommet (90480-18001)

OEM ventilation hose (1x): 12261-50050

OEM ventilation hose no. 2 (1x): 12262-50030

Vacuum line - 4ft of OEM vacuum line (90999-92006)

Not much to talk about really just a whole bunch of parts. Matt @ Import Motor Werks did all the disassembly and assembly and I just stayed out of the way mostly and did all the cleaning and prep tasks. This was very time consuming and if I was to plan this differently I would do the starter replacement separately. 

Laying out all the parts for visibility.

With all the coolant drained Matt evacuated the R134 refrigerant to get the AC lines out of the way and then proceeded to get the clutch fan, radiator, harness etc out of the way to tackle removal components up top, intake manifold, valve cover, timing belt covers etc. 

Again the CUDA was used to get everything clean, before it was put in the parts washer I sprayed it down with a degreaser and agitated everything with a brass brush just to help things along and boy did the valve covers clean up nicely!! 

Starter, coolant by-bass gaskets and all electrical connectors replaced

Cam seals, crank seals, water pump, timing belt, tensioners and pulleys replaced.

Addressed the intake manifold, cleaned up the mating surfaces for new gaskets.

Removed the injectors to get cleaned as well and replaced with all new O-rings.

New fuel pressure regulator and lines.

Everything coming back together.

Of course can't leave out the tee's and all new lines to go with it.

After the fan clutch and radiator was replaced and with everything buttoned back up the truck was left overnight so the FIPG can cure and the next day coolant was filled and bled. The O2 sensors were replaced as well. 

Was everything necessary? I had a check engine light on for a lean code due to the O2 sensors. With everything apart Matt did point out the timing belt tensioner was failing since it was leaking hydraulic fluid so just that in itself made it worth it. No other leaks from the crank and cam seals. There was a slight leak from the valve cover gasket but everything else seemed good. So was everything necessary, no but the "while you are in there" mentality drove me to plan for everything including connectors which could break due to age. For now I have peace of mind that this should be good for awhile! So that makes it worth it for me.

Huge thanks to Matt again for doing this!

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CT200h - Engine Cooling System, all the hubs & Brake System Overhaul.

I've been meaning to do the engine cooling system but didn't get around to it. Well time to get rid of more parts that I have been accumulating. Scheduled time with Matt at Import Motor Werks and added a brake system overhaul because last time Matt stated that my brake pads were getting low. Anywhoo on to the updates.

Parts List:
K&N Air Filter 33-2435
Water Inlet Assy w/ Thermostat - 16031-37010
Water pump - OEM - 161A0-29015
Radiator - OEM - 16400-37240
Lower radiator hose - OEM - 16572-37120

Upper Radiator Hose - OEM - 16571-37140 

Drive Motor Inverter Cooler Water Pump (AISIN WQT-001)

Amsoil Brake fluid (BFLVCN-EA) x 2 

Front hub - OEM (43550-47011) Production Date: 12/2010-06/2012

Rear hub - OEM (42450-76021) Production Date: 03/2011-12/2013

Front brake pads - Akebono ProACT (ACT1184A)

Rear brake pads - Akebono ProACT (ACT1354C)

Rotors - Front Right - StopTech 126.44172SR Sport Slotted Brake Rotor; Front Right

Rotors - Front Left - StopTech 126.44172SL Sport Slotted Brake Rotor

Rotors - Rear Right - StopTech 126.44173SR Sport Slotted Brake Rotor

Rotors - Rear Left - StopTech 126.44173SL Sport Slotted Brake Rotor

Brake Calipers I had rebuilt earlier but if you want part numbers for those:

    Front Disc Brake Caliper RH - OEM - 47730-47060

    Front Disc Brake Caliper LH - OEM - 47750-47060

    Rear Disc Brake Caliper RH - OEM - 47830-12240

    Rear Disc Brake Caliper LH - OEM - 47850-12240

Since the radiator had to be swapped out as well the easiest way was to discharge the freon, drain the coolant from the radiator and from the inverter, disconnect the condenser, remove the upper radiator support, upper and lower radiator hoses along with the inverter hoses and pull the whole cradle that contains the radiator, condenser and inverter cooler.   

With the cradle out of the way there was easy access to the inverter pump. Remove the air box and there was easy access to the thermostat and water pump. Replaced all the parts and assembly in the reverse order. Filled up the coolant reservoirs and bled the system.

All the old engine coolant parts:

Onto the hub and brakes. 

Undid the calipers, removed the rotors and wow the hubs were crusty!! Anyway got the hubs out, smoothed out the surfaces and new hubs went on. Didn't get a chance to clean out the dust shields because of time constraints. 

New rotors, calipers and spacers went back on, torqued the spacers, put on the hub centric rings and that was done. Also did a full brake fluid flush.

All the old parts:

How everything looks with the wheels on and bedding in the brakes. The bedding in process took off all the black coating and this is how it looks.

So far so good, brakes work, happy that I didn't mess that up. Happy with how everything turned out.

-AJ Abraham

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CT200h - Brake Caliper Rebuild

Wanted to refresh the braking system but wasn't pressed for time so got a set of used caliper and set about refreshing it.

Parts used:
FRONT Brake Cylinder Rebuild Kit - 04478-47040
REAR Brake Cylinder Rebuild Kit - 04479-12230

Did a quick clean up by throwing it in the cuda that got rid of mostly all the grime etc. that had built up over the years and prepped them with a quick sanding and cleaning out all the crevices before it went for paint.

Picked a color that would tie in to the 'Hybrid' logo on the side of the car.

Masked up all the any mounting surfaces and the insides of the caliper. All OEM parts were used for this rebuild.

For the rear caliper if you press down on the bracket where the ebrake cable connects to it slowly pushes the piston out, you can do that till it pops out or out enough where you can pull it by hand.  

Pulled the brake pins out and cleaned out the pins and where it slides in the caliper. Used a brass brush and brake cleaner. The pins were regreased and new rubber boots for the pins were used. 

To push the piston out from the front caliper I used a Milwaukee inflator with the nipple attachment. I put some foam between the piston and caliper to cushion the piston when it came out, then pressed the nipple against where the brake line threads in, set the inflator to 7psi to push the piston out, pull out if it comes out too fast. Do this at your own risk, I assume no responsibility, I'm just stating what I did. 

I used a composite pick to mitigate the risk of any marring to the piston of cylinder. With all new piston rings, boots etc. I went ahead and ceramic coated it because umm.. why not.  

Everything looks good and I did a basic test by pushing the piston out slowly as described before and back in hopefully everything works. For now everything looks good, if I was in a hurry would I do this again, absolutely not. This whole process probably took a month or so just because everything was done when I was bored. Thanks to Jeremy at the body shop for painting these for me. 

-AJ Abraham

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